Thursday, November 9, 2017

Cow Skull Kalle- Closet Case Files Kalle with Long Sleeve Expansion

Black shirts are the basis of my fall wardrobe, so when Heather announced sleeves for the Kalle Shirt, I couldn't sew one up fast enough. 

This one is made in black tencel from Threadbare Fabrics. I'm okay telling you that it is AWESOME fabric because I've already purchased some more for my stash. It is thick, smooth and silky and presses like a dream, sort of like a high quality matte silk charmeuse without the price tag. The tencel I've bought has varied widely in its qualities-- this one is by far the nicest I've seen.

I've already sewed the Kalle several times, you can read more about it here and here. To make this Kalle, I used my shortened tunic pattern in size 12.

I didn't muslin the sleeves, but I did baste on the sleeve and cuff to check fit. It fit perfectly. The sleeves might be just a tad on the long side, but I decided I liked them that way. So I removed my basting and sewed the sleeves in properly. The armhole and sideseam are finished with a faux flat fell, as suggested by the pattern.

In typical Closet Case style, the sleeves are an understated but cool design-- they have a super wide cuff with traditional tower plackets. I decided to put a double button on the cuff so that I could turn it halfway up.

I used some more of my favorite smokey mother-of-pearl buttons. With the double cuff and extra-long length of the Kalle, I used one whole shirt set and the leftovers from another set.

I sewed the inside yoke with a piece of silk from a roll end from Emmaonesock. I totally didn't realize this fabric described as a "rorscharch pattern" had bull's skulls on it, but when I noticed this I knew it would be the perfect secret detail for this shirt.

The jeans in these pictures are, of course, my black Closet Case Ginger Jeans.

I guess I should also say that purchasing the expansion pack makes this the most expensive pattern I've ever bought- $14 for the original pattern, and $7 for the expansion, no discounts. But this is now the 4th Kalle I've made, and I'll probably make more, so that is in its favor. Since the Kalle was the first shirt pattern I ever sewed, the sew-along was like a sewing course filled with super-useful tips for fuss-free shirt making, so that also is in its favor. Finally, this pattern fit my body without a single change (I didn't even make a muslin for the first Kalle)... and that's pretty invaluable. Of course, this last item won't be true for everyone, but this pattern does seem to work for a wide variety of body types.

I know it is such a stereotype for artists to dress in black... but I just can't help myself. Lately my self-chosen uniform has been black collared shirts with black jeans. Occasionally I wear a white shirt. Somehow I don't find it boring at all, and getting dressed has never been easier. This Kalle is a fun addition to my very small (but growing) shirt wardrobe-- just a little bit different, but still very classic and understated. 

1 comment:

  1. Great shirt on you!
    I love the feel of tencel, so this is very inspiring...
    Makes me want to break out of my no-sew no-mojo lately
    :-) Chris